I have tasted
the freedom of the ocean
the freedom of the waves
that set me apart
from those who
weren’t riding them

I have tasted life
at its sweetest;
life at its most
incomprehensible point of
satisfaction
and understanding.

There are times when
that moment I would forget.
But in remembering
moments such as those
Life turns and becomes
another part of the experience
that is everything I want to be.

I have faced waves
I have faced oceans
I have faced rivers
I have faced mountains

I have faced myself
in the face of these
that nature would
present to challenge me

and lost though
I am at times

I cannot but face
the reflections of myself
from which I would run
From which I would hide
and to which I will focus
all attention possible.

It is this life that I lead now
one of many that I don’t remember.
It is this life that brings about
the change in what I will remember.

It is the moment
I have felt
when nothing else
is of any concern.

It is the moment,
the moments of my life
For which I yearn.

I have lived,
and I have surfed
and I have loved,
and I have grown
and everything I feel right now
is a part
of all I am.